Navigating Egyptian Visas: On Arrival vs. E-Visa – Our Personal Journey

Need a visa for Egypt? Discover whether a Visa on Arrival or an eVisa is right for you with our personal experience and essential travel tips for a seamless journey.

Planning a trip to Egypt can be both exciting and a bit daunting, especially when it comes to handling visa requirements. Just two days before my partner and I flew to Egypt last month for a wedding, I realised we needed to secure our visas. Naturally, we were anxious about whether we'd be allowed entry smoothly. Here’s what we learned about obtaining a visa to Egypt, whether on arrival or in advance.

Do you need a Visa?

Some nationalities do not require an e-Visa for Egypt. For instance, travellers from Lebanon and Saudi Arabia are exempt. To check if your country is eligible for an exemption, visit the official Egypt e-Visa website. 

E-Visa vs. Visa on Arrival

For those who need a visa, such as Europeans and Americans, Egypt offers two primary ways to obtain a visa: Visa on Arrival and E-Visa. The best option for you depends on your nationality and travel plans.

E-Visa

• Cost: $25 (you can also pay in euros, and you might receive some change in Egyptian currency since euros are slightly stronger than the dollar).
• Processing Time: Apply at least 5 days in advance, but 10 days is recommended to avoid any last-minute issues.
• Benefits: Avoids queues at the airport and provides peace of mind knowing your visa is secured before departure. The only way to apply for a visa for some nationalities (check here).

Visa on Arrival

• Cost: $25 (also payable in euros, and you might receive some change in Egyptian currency since euros are slightly stronger than the dollar).
• Processing Time: Generally quick, especially outside the peak tourist season (November to March).
• Pros: Convenient for last-minute travellers or those who prefer not to handle the e-Visa application process.
• Cons: Potential for longer waits during busy times or peak seasons, although the queue is usually manageable outside these periods.

When to Choose Which Option

Choose E-Visa if:

• You are planning two or more weeks in advance.
• You prefer having your visa sorted before travelling.
• You want to avoid any uncertainties or delays at the airport.
• You’re travelling during busier times and want to skip potential queues.
• You are from a country with no Visa on Arrival option, such as many sub-Saharan African countries (check here)

Choose Visa on Arrival if:

• You’re short on time and didn’t apply for an e-visa in advance.
• You’re travelling during off-peak seasons when queues are shorter.
• You prefer the flexibility of handling the visa process upon landing.
• You are from a country eligible to apply for an Egyptian visa on arrival.

Urgent E-Visa Options: If you find yourself needing an e-visa urgently, some consulates offer expedited e-visa services for an additional fee. This option typically takes at least 2 days but can provide greater comfort and reduce waiting times at the airport.

Our Experience

Two days before our flight, the pressure was on. We weren’t sure if we should apply for the urgent e-visa or go for the Visa on Arrival. After weighing our options, we decided to go with the Visa on Arrival since our trip was imminent and we wanted to avoid the hassle of applying online last minute.

Before arriving at Cairo Airport, our flight distributed the landing card for immigration needed to get the visa on arrival, as it was a flight from Europe with Aegean Airlines (you can read about the flight experience here). The card only asked basic questions, such as your name, passport number, where you are staying, and purpose of stay (tourism). I recommend you bring a pen, as the air staff only had one. Upon arrival, the process was smooth, as we went outside the peak season. Paying in euros worked out well, and we appreciated receiving some change in Egyptian pounds, making the process even more convenient. When you arrive, simply go to an Egyptian bank kiosk in the arrivals hall, hand over your payment, and receive a visa sticker to place in your passport. While the official recommendation is to bring two official passport-sized photos of yourself, we were not asked for any additional forms, photos, or questions—making it a straightforward process.

Tips for a Smooth Visa Process

• Check Your Eligibility: Verify if your country requires an e-Visa or if you’re exempt by visiting the official Egypt e-Visa website.
• Plan Ahead: If possible, apply for an e-Visa at least 5 days in advance, or 10 days to be safe.
• Consider Peak Seasons: During high tourist seasons, opting for an e-Visa can save you from long queues, but it may also take longer to be accepted (up to 10 days).
• Bring the Right Payment at Visa on Arrival: While both dollars and euros are accepted, local staff may prefer dollars. That said, we had no problems with euros and would do it again.
• Explore Urgent E-Visa Options: If you’re in a rush, check if your local consulate offers expedited e-visa services.
• Prepare Necessary Documents: Whether applying online or on arrival, ensure you have all required documents ready, including your passport valid for at least six months (and any supporting materials, such as a photo. We were not asked for this).
• Upon leaving Egypt, you will have to fill a similar form, but this time you won't need to get a visa sticker, just need to give the form to the border control at the airport.

Whether you choose to apply for an e-visa in advance or opt for the convenience of a Visa on Arrival, being informed and prepared can make the process seamless. Our experience was smooth, and we were able to focus on enjoying the wedding and the pyramids without any visa-related worries.

Disclosure: We paid for our trip and received no compensation for this review. This post is based on our personal experience and is not officially reviewed by official authorities. Therefore, some details may be subject to inaccuracies.

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Aegean Short Haul Flight: Business VS Economy (From Brussels to Cairo via Athens)

Discover the ultimate comparison between Aegean Airlines' business and economy class 

Aegean Short Haul Flight: Business VS Economy (From Brussels to Cairo via Athens)

 Discover the ultimate comparison between Aegean Airlines' business and economy class on a short-haul flight from Brussels to Cairo, featuring in-flight meals, service highlights and insider travel tips to elevate your journey!

Flying short-haul in Europe can be a mixed bag, especially with the ongoing decline in onboard services. When planning my trip to Cairo for a wedding at the Seasons Country Club, I had two choices: a direct flight with EgyptAir at €400 each way or a more affordable €400 round trip with Aegean Airlines, connecting through Athens.

The deciding factor? Aegean Airlines’ reputation for excellent service and onboard meals, as recommended by a Greek colleague. Curious to experience their business and economy classes, I booked the light economy fare and decided to bid for an upgrade on one leg of the journey. Here's how both experiences are compared.

Economy Class: Brussels to Athens to Cairo

Pre-Flight and Boarding

Booking a light economy fare meant travelling light—carry-on luggage only. Since we were only staying three days for the wedding, this worked well for us.

Check-in was smooth, but as we didn’t pre-select seats, we ended up in the middle rows. Boarding followed Aegean’s policy of grouping passengers, with those who didn’t pre-select seat boarding last. To avoid checking our luggage (which contained fragile gifts), we joined the queue slightly ahead of our group—thankfully, this strategy worked!

In-Flight Experience

The Airbus A320neo was modern, complete with USB plug sockets at every seat—a rare convenience on European short-haul flights (Figure 1). 

Figure 1: USB plug sockets on A320neo aircraft.

Shortly after takeoff, we were served the economy meal: I opted for the pasta, which was surprisingly flavorful, accompanied by a small salad and drinks. I went for a bottle of Kokotoe wine, packed in glass—a nice touch. Dessert was a simple but satisfying chocolate wafer bar (Figure 2).

Figure 2: Food served at Aegean Airlines economy class.

Though the food exceeded expectations, service was a bit slow; my partner had to wait 45 minutes for a glass of water, expected on a full plane with a complimentary meal. Overall, the experience was pleasant, and I appreciated the thoughtful details like the wrapped jelly candies offered during boarding and the dessert chocolate wafer bar (Figure 3).

Figure 3: Serenata dessert in Aegean economy class.

Layover at Athens Airport

 Athens Airport is vibrant and well-organized, making the quick transition relatively stress-free. However, having to pass through border control to outside the European Union took some time (20 minutes).

Business Class: Athens to Cairo

Pre-Flight and Boarding

For this leg, I bid €45 for a business class upgrade and was thrilled when it was accepted. Boarding was delayed due to connecting passengers (ourselves included), but the attentive crew made up for it with impeccable service.

In-Flight Experience

Business class began with a welcome drink—sparkling wine served in real glassware before take-off, a rare treat on European flights (Figure 4). Once airborne, menus were distributed alongside arrival cards for Egyptian visas. Aegean’s personal touch shone through here, though the single pen available for all business passengers to share was a minor hiccup.

Figure 4: Welcome sparkling wine in business (left) and business dinner food menu (right).

For the main course, I chose the chicken burger with spicy pilaf and yoghurt sauce, while my partner selected the sea bass with lemon sauce (Figure 4). Both dishes were well-executed, with the sea bass being a standout—even for my Portuguese standards. The meal was complemented by Greek wines and a delightful Coppa Cocktail Passion Fruit Martini. Dessert was equally indulgent, rounding off a luxurious dining experience.

Figure 5: Business dinner at Aegean short-haul flight.

Despite the delay, the flight felt seamless, and the attentive crew ensured a smooth arrival in Cairo.

Visa on Arrival in Cairo

Getting a visa on arrival was straightforward. At the Bank of Egypt kiosk, I exchanged $25 (or the euro equivalent) for a visa stamp. The process was quick, and the staff even returned some Egyptian pounds as change when paying in euros. With the visa sorted, we breezed through border control and hopped into an Uber to our hotel.

Key Tips for Flying with Aegean Airlines

1. Bid for Upgrades: Keep an eye on upgrade offers—they can be as low as €45.
2. Check-in Early: Free seat selection is limited; in economy class, late check-in often means middle seats.
3. Bring a USB Charger: Aegean’s newer aircraft (like the Airbus A320neo) have USB plug sockets, but you’ll need a standard USB cable, not USB-C, for charging.
4. More key tips on the way with my review of the return flight!

Flying with Aegean Airlines was a truly delightful experience in both economy and business class. The business class, in particular, stood out with its gourmet-level service and food quality—surpassing the standard of many European carriers. For just €45, the upgrade, along with the added perks of business class, was an incredible value. The thoughtful details, from excellent meals to attentive service, made the journey memorable. Stay tuned for my review of the return leg, where I’ll dive deeper into Aegean’s exceptional offerings.

Disclosure: We paid for our flights and received no compensation for this review. This post is based on our personal experience and is not officially reviewed by the airline. Therefore, some details may be subject to inaccuracies.

Gut Physiology & Microbiota

Digestion and nutrients absorption are routine processes involving several organs' coordination. They are mediated by the secretion of hormones and the enteric nervous system (often designated the “second brain”) and can be substantially impacted by the microbiota.

The gastrointestinal tract (GIT) directly comprises the oral cavity, the pharynx, the oesophagus, the stomach and the small and large intestines. The main function of the tract is the assimilation of nutrients from ingested food that flows through by coordinated motility of the GIT, associated with the appropriate fluid and enzyme solutions. Consequently, the macromolecules in food are gradually digested, and the nutrients liberated are absorbed into the circulatory system. Although digestion and absorption are routine processes, they involve the coordination of several organs, mediated by the secretion of hormones and the enteric nervous system (often designated the “second brain”) (1). The following sequence concisely exemplifies the assimilation of food throughout the GIT, in order to relate the diverse actions and compositions of the microbiota throughout the tract (2):

1. Mastication and Swallowing 

The food breaks in the mouth and forms a bolus suitable to be swallowed, while saliva humidifies and provides enzymes for the initial digestion. Once swallowed, the food bolus takes about 10 seconds to descend into the stomach via the oesophagus.

2. Stomach

Depending on its composition, the bolus remains in the stomach for one to four hours. The organ has three properties that contribute to the digestion. Firstly, stomach mobility mixes and divides the bolus into smaller particles. Secondly, the gastric acid dissolves and denatures proteins into small polypeptides, besides preventing pathogenic organisms present in food to reach the intestines and bloodstream. Thirdly, besides gastric acid, the gastric mucosa produces mucus, that protects the stomach cell wall, pepsinogen, that activates into pepsin when in contact with the gastric acid and breaks proteins, and gastric lipase, that is involved in fat digestion and emulsification (3). Then, the food particles pass through the pyloric sphincter and start to be absorbed by the small intestine. As well as the first part of the small intestine, the stomach contains oxygen and inhospitable physiology, with a less diverse but more aerotolerant and aerobic microbiota. 

3. Small Intestine

Once in the small intestine, the digested food is blended with exocrine secretions containing bicarbonate (HCO3-), that neutralizes the acid from the stomach. The exocrine secretions also contain salts from bile and enzymes from pancreatic and intestinal juices, which are involved in the digestion of proteins, carbohydrates and fat. All the significant absorption of nutrients into the bloodstream occurs in the small intestine, where the food stays around seven to ten hours, advancing through the organ via enteric motility (4). Due to the digestive enzymes and bile of the small intestine, the organ has a less diverse and abundant microbiota than the colon, usually being dominated by species from Streptococcus, Bifidobacterium, Lactobacillus and Enterococcus genera (5). 

4. Large Intestine (Colon)

Finally, the transit reaches the large intestine, starting at the cecum and ending at the sigmoid colon and taking twelve to twenty-four hours to occur. Among several functions, the large intestine is responsible for fluid and electrolyte absorption, and, with the assistance of the microbiota, the fermentation of fibre. The large intestine has the most diverse, abounding and aero-intolerant microbiota of the GIT, with a strong presence of Bacteroidetes and Firmicutes (5,6).

REFERENCES 

1. Collen A. 10% Humanos. 1st ed. Lisboa: Objectiva Editora; 2016. https://www.wook.pt/livro/10-humanos-alanna-collen/17436036.

2. Kibble JD, Halsey CR. Gastrointestinal Physiology. In: Medical Physiology: The Big Picture. McGraw Hill; 2009. https://accessmedicine.mhmedical.com/book.aspx?bookID=1291

3. Armand M, Hamosh M, DiPalma JS, et al. Dietary fat modulates gastric lipase activity in healthy humans. Am J Clin Nutr. 1995;62(1):74-80. doi:10.1093/ajcn/62.1.74

4. Ulleberg EK, Comi I, Holm H, Herud EB, Jacobsen M, Vegarud GE. Human gastrointestinal juices intended for use in in vitro digestion models. Food Dig. 2011;2(1-3):52-61. doi:10.1007/s13228-011-0015-4

5. Mailhe M, Ricaboni D, Vitton V, et al. Repertoire of the gut microbiota from stomach to colon using culturomics and next-generation sequencing. BMC Microbiol. 2018. doi:10.1186/s12866-018-1304-7

6. Hillman ET, Lu H, Yao T, Nakatsu CH. Microbial ecology along the gastrointestinal tract. Microbes Environ. 2017;32(4):300-313. doi:10.1264/jsme2.ME17017

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Role of the Normal Gastrointestinal (Gut) Microbiota

The gastrointestinal microbiota is involved in multiple aspects of our metabolism, being moderately responsible for our health equilibrium.

Role of the Normal Gastrointestinal (Gut) Microbiota

At the beginning of the century, the significance of the human forgotten organ, the gut microbiota, started to be widely recognized and studied. Nowadays, it is well established that a healthy gastrointestinal tract (GIT) microbiota is moderately responsible for the health of the host (1). Among several roles, the GIT microbiota is associated with the following functions: 

1. Metabolic 

The GIT microbiota is involved in multiple aspects of our metabolism, for example, by producing essential nutrients (such as vitamins K2 and B12, folate, amino acids and fatty acids) and extracting energy from fibre. In fact, vegetables, nuts and fruits have a fair amount of non-digestible fibre (dietary fibre) that reaches the large intestine mainly intact. Once there, the microbiota can take advantage of dietary fibre and generate energy from it, producing waste products such as short-chain fatty acids. Those acids can be used as an energy source by GIT cells and help to maintain a healthy pH, which inhibits the growth of some pathogens. For instance, butyrate is one of the most relevant short-chain fatty acid produced by the intestinal microbiota. Besides being an energy source for the colon, it has anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties (2). 

Figure 1 — A fibre-rich versus a fibre-deprived gut microbiota (10).

2. Structural and Protective

The GIT prevents potential pathogenic microorganisms from adhering to its cells, as it establishes an extensive surface coating in the epithelium and may produce antimicrobial compounds (such as bacteriocins and acids). Additionally, the immune cells of the GIT secrets roughly 60% of the human body immunoglobulins, in the vast gut-associated lymphoid tissue (GALT), that has a strong relationship with the microbiota (3,4). Although countless beneficial interactions have been established between GIT immune cells and GIT microbiota, the majority may remain uncertain or unknown.

3. Maturation of Innate and Adaptive Immune Responses 

It is also very significant to help the immune system distinguishing commensal from undesirable microorganisms (5). Commensal GIT microbes can interact with the immune system and induce regulatory T cells, that balances the host Th1 and Th2 immune responses, which dysregulation may lead to autoimmune and atopic diseases, respectively (6,7). Therefore, a healthy GIT microbiota may play a significant role in diminishing the prevalence and symptomatology of autoimmune disorders and allergies. 

4. Physical and Psychological Health 

In the last decade, the GIT microbiota has been closely associated with the global health of its host. For example, multiple cases of autism have been related to disturbs of the microbiota, principally due to a prolongated intake of antibiotics in the first years of life and Clostridium enteric infections (8). The GIT microbiota has also been linked to variation in moods and emotions by excreting neurotransmitters into the bloodstream, such as noradrenaline and serotonin by certain strains of Escherichia coli. The microbiota-gut-brain axis is one of the most complex and least know interactions to date and can be closely related to mood disorders, which affects 10% of the world’s population. Therefore, the GIT microbiota emerges as a potential therapeutic and diagnose target to treat such disorders in the future (9).

REFERENCES 

1. O’Hara AM, Shanahan F. The gut flora as a forgotten organ. EMBO Rep. 2006;7(7):688-693. doi:10.1038/sj.embor.7400731 
2. Liu H, Wang J, He T, et al. Butyrate: A double-edged sword for health? Adv Nutr. 2018;9(1):21- 29. doi:10.1093/advances/nmx009 
3. Arrazuria R, Pérez V, Molina E, Juste RA, Khafipour E, Elguezabal N. Diet induced changes in the microbiota and cell composition of rabbit gut associated lymphoid tissue (GALT). Sci Rep. 2018;8:14103. doi:10.1038/s41598-018-32484-1 
4. Brandtzaeg P, Halstensen TS, Kett K, et al. Immunobiology and immunopathology of human gut mucosa: Humoral immunity and intraepithelial lymphocytes. Gastroenterology. 1989;97:1562-1584. doi:10.1016/0016-5085(89)90406-X 
5. Montalto M, D’Onofrio F, Gallo A, Cazzato A, Gasbarrini G. Intestinal microbiota and its functions. Dig Liver Dis Suppl. 2009;3(2):30-34. doi:10.1016/S1594-5804(09)60016-4 
6. Azad MB, Kozyrskyj AL. Perinatal programming of asthma: The role of gut microbiota. Clin Dev Immunol. 2012;2012:932072. doi:10.1155/2012/932072 
7. Skapenko A, Leipe J, Lipsky PE, Schulze-Koops H. The role of the T cell in autoimmune inflammation. Arthritis Res Ther. 2005;7(Suppl 2):S4-14. doi:10.1186/ar1505 
8. Collen A. 10% Humanos. 1st ed. Lisboa: Objectiva Editora; 2016. https://www.wook.pt/livro/10-humanos-alanna-collen/17436036. 
9. Huang TT, Lai JB, Du YL, Xu Y, Ruan LM, Hu SH. Current understanding of gut microbiota in mood disorders: An update of human studies. Front Genet. 2019;10:98. doi:10.3389/fgene.2019.00098
10. Desai MS, Seekatz AM, Koropatkin NM, et al. A Dietary Fiber-Deprived Gut Microbiota Degrades the Colonic Mucus Barrier and Enhances Pathogen Susceptibility. Cell. 2016 Nov 17;167(5):1339-1353.e21. doi: 10.1016/j.cell.2016.10.043. PMID: 27863247; PMCID: PMC5131798

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Neolamprologus multifasciatus | A detailed guide to keep and raise these shell dweller

The complete and exclusive guide about my experience in keeping and breeding the smallest cichlids ever known, the shell-dweller Neolamprologus multifasciatus.

Neolamprologus Multifasciatus | Um guia detalhado para manter e criar os conchículas

Classificação: Neolamprologus multifasciatus (Boulenger, 1906)

Alcunhas: multis

Distribuição: África, endémicos do Lago Tanganyka

Reprodução: fácil

Dimorfismo sexual: difícil quando jovens

Comportamento: muito bom com peixes que usem a parte de cima do aquário
Dieta: comem de tudo

Características da água & Habitat

No seu ambiente natural, os multis vivem no fundo do lago mais comprido do mundo, o Lago Tanganica. Eles habitam na sua costa, onde encontram areia macia e conchas vazias de Neothauma para eles habitarem. É verdade! Cada multi viverá na sua própria concha, onde irá descansar, esconder-se e procriar (tal como nós temos a nossa própria casa).

A água do lago costuma ter pH de 9 e temperaturas entre os 24 e os 29ºC. No aquário, os multis costumam ser muito versáteis, e eu aconselho os seguintes parâmetros:
pH — 7,8 a 9,5 (8,5 é o ideal)
GH — 10 a 20 dGH
kH — 4 a10 dKH
Temperature — 24 a 26ºC

Apesar dos parâmetros acima, os multis são dos peixes mais resistentes que já cuidei. É possível mantê-los em parâmetros bem diferentes dos ideais, mas eles não serão felizes. De início, por impossibilidade de ter água alcalina, tive a minha colónia a pH de 7,2. Qual foi o resultado? Eles jamais procriavam. Mal subi o pH, os filhotes começaram a aparecer (vou falar mais do assunto em breve). Outros parâmetros da água, como a temperatura e a dureza, são mais versáteis e podem ser ajustados de colónia a colónia.

Por último, há o requisito  mais importante para a vida de multi: as conchas! No Lago Tanganyika, as conchas são do caracol Neothauma, no entanto, eles não são tão exigentes. A primeira colónia que mantive foram com as conchas desse caracol, mas nas seguintes usei as conchas que tinha à disposição, como de caracóis normais ou até algumas mais elaboradas (como podem ver nas fotografias). Na escolha de conchas, evitem as bicudas (que podem ferir os multis) e as demasiado pequenas (que nada mais serão do que decoração). Se as conchas forem maiores, não se preocupem, eles não se importam (alguns dos meus até preferem!). Outro pormenor engraçado com que me deparei: os multis gostam de cocos e rochas com espaços para entrar e sair para um passeio aquático. Podes adicioná-los ao aquário dos multis se gostares (embora os cocos e os troncos de madeira possam diminuir um pouco o pH, o seu efeito não é significativo em grandes aquários ou em água naturalmente alcalina).

Só vivemos numa concha, mas queremos e PRECISAMOS de muitas!

Isso mesmo! O teu aquário deve ter, pelo menos, 2 conchas por multi (melhor se puderes arranjar mais). A distribuição das conchas também deve ser organizada. Por um lado, deves escolher uma zona do aquário para colocares as conchas de onde queres que a colónia se estabeleça. Separa as conchas uns centímetros uma das outras (se ficarem juntas, apenas um multi ou um casal de multis viverá nessa zona, apesar de apenas usar uma ou duas conchas). Podes colocar aglomerados de 3 ou 4 conchas em algumas zonas, de forma a que se um casal quiser estabelecer consiga fazê-lo. Já tive casais a viverem na mesma concha, mas, normalmente, gostam de viver em conchas diferentes, mas muito próximas (especialmente quando a fêmea tem alevinos).

Duas fêmeas a protegerem o território das suas conchas e dos seus alevinos.

É de salientar que deves colocar conchas noutras zonas do aquário, para se poderem formar novas colónias (caso os múltis sintam que é necessário) ou a nova colónia ficará sem-abrigo. Outra coisa que deves ter em mente é que, por mais que escolhas uma zona do aquário para ter a colónia, os multis podem escolher uma zona diferente para viverem, mesmo que implique menos conchas (nesse caso, podes deslocar algumas conchas do sítio que tinahs em mente).

Tamanho Máximo dos Multis & do seu Aquário

Os multis são os ciclídeos mais pequenos de que há registo, pelo que também são dos que precisam de menos espaço para viverem. Como gostam de viver em colónias, normalmente de 6 a 12 elementos e com um macho dominante (por norma, o maior). A certa altura, os machos menores acabam por atingir o tamanho do macho dominante e aí tendem a ser expulsos da colónia, podendo começar uma nova desde que haja conchas noutras zonas do aquário.

Assim, a dimensão mais importante do aquário não é a litragem, mas sim a largura e comprimento (os multis apenas usam a parte debaixo do aquário, pelo que a altura do mesmo não é relevante). No meu aquário de 200 litros, tenho uma colónia de 5 fêmeas e 1 macho a viver em 40cm x 35 cm com 12 alevinos. No entanto, recomendo um aquário maior, para que os parâmetros da água sejam mais estáveis e no caso de a colónia se dividir (o que irremediavelmente acontece com mais machos ou o aumento da colónia).

Areia, areia e mais areia — Somos ótimos escavadores!

Tu ouviste os multis: eles adoram escavar. Uma das suas características mais cativantes é precisamente o hobby de escavar. Qualquer multi saudável e que se preze gosta de agarrar a areia ou pequenas pedras à volta da sua concha e acumulá-las num sítio perto. Não se sabe ao certo porque fazem isso, embora eu desconfie que funcione como um segundo esconderijo além da concha. Por exemplo, todas as mamãs multis do meu aquário têm os bebés numa grande depressão de areia debaixo da sua concha durante o dia (à noite os bebés recolhem para dentro da concha da sua mãe).

Dito isto, é muito importante que o aquário tenha um substrato de areia macia ou de pequenas pedras que não firam os multis durante as suas escavações diárias. Recomendo um substrato de, pelo menos, 5 centímetros. No meu aquário, tenho uma camada de areia e pedrinhas naturais de 6-7 centímetros. No entanto, faço um alerta a substratos desta grossura: podem permitir que bactérias que não gostam de oxigénio cresçam no fundo e produzam compostos tóxicos para os peixes, como sulfureto de hidrogénio (H2S). É um risco que pode ser controlável, uma vez que o H2S só é tóxico se se acumular na areia e for libertado de repente. Ora, como os multis estão sempre a escavar (e muitas vezes escavam até ao fundo do aquário), a areia é regularmente aerada ei H2S não se acumula. Se quiserem ter um substrato como o meu e jogar pelo seguro, também podem adicionar caracóis como Melanoides tuberculata, que se enterram durante a areia durante o dia, levando o oxigénio para dentro da mesma. Para terminar com uma curiosidade, aquários com uma boa camada de areia têm a desvantagem de ser mais pesados e de terem uma camada de água menos alta (pouco importante para os multis), mas trazem o benefício de trazer bactérias que ajudam a regular os parâmetros da água e evitar a acumulação de NH3, No2- e No3- (amónia, nitrito e nitrato, respetivamente) e, desta forma, podem ser precisas menos trocas de água.

Dieta — Podemos não ser exigentes, mas ...

Em tudo os multis têm algo que se lhe diga. No que toca a alimentação, eles devoram tudo, desde comida granulada ou floculada a comida vida, como artémias e dáfnias. Eu alimento os meus com flocos normais e a comida especialmente concebida para os peixes do Lago Tanganyika da Tropical. Se também usarem esta comida da Tropical, hão de reparar que são em chips demasiado grandes para os multis engolirem e demasiado compactas para eles conseguirem morder e partir. Assim, o segredo está em desfazer os chips (eu faço-o fazendo pressão entre duas colheres) e depois dou-lhes os bocadinhos resultantes.

Algo que reparei quando adquiri os meus multis (das duas vezes que o fiz). Eles odeiam trocar de casa e, ao mudarem-se para o vosso aquário, podem parecer muito tímidos, pálidos e não se interessarem em comer. Não se preocupem se isso vos acontecer nos primeiros 4 ou 5 dias. Eles aguentam bem essa breve greve de fome (desde que saudáveis, claro) e, às escondidas, eu desconfio que eles lá arranjam o que comer. Algo que será muito pior é se deres comida a mais para se acumular no aquário e eles poderem comer quando não estiveres a ver. Isso irá piorar as condições da água e pode comprometer a saúde de todos os peixes (além disso, os multis não costumam procurar comida pela areia, apesar de viverem perto dela).

Comportamento & Compatibilidade com outros peixes

Como ciclídeos, não podemos esperar outra coisa dos multis do que peixes com atitude. Podem ser pequenos, mas defendem o seu território convictos e em grupo. Como já referi anteriormente, são peixes que habitam o fundo e meio do aquário, pelo que não deve haver problemas se tiverem peixes que apenas usem a parte superior do aquário (desde que o  aquário não tenha uma altura ridícula, como 20 centímetros, e cuidado com peixes frágeis e demasiados vistosos, como guppies machos).

Quanto a compatibilidade com outros ciclídeos, há opiniões contraditórias sobre se os multis devem ou não ser misturados com os seus compatriotas do Lago Tanganyika. Se o vosso aquário for largo e espaçoso, de 200 ou mais litros, a resposta é simples e fácil: podes ter outros pequenos conchículas ou rock dwellers, como Neolamprologus brichardi e as espécies mais pequenas e pacíficas de Julidochromis. Também podes tentar adicionar Cyprichromis, porém, estes peixes são rápidos e podem conseguir devorar a prole dos multis antes que eles consigam reagir (toda a colónia protegerá os seus alevinos, mas demoram um segundos a reagir aos intrusos, antes de entrar no modo veloz de defesa).

Em paralelo, estão à vontade para adicionar caracóis e camarões (estes últimos provavelmente serão devorados, mas pode valer a pena tentar). Quanto aos caracóis, podem ser uma ótima aquisição para ajudar a manter o aquário. Pessoalmente, mantenho Planorbis corneus e Melanoides tuberculata e garanto que são pacíficos, não tocam nos alevinos dos multis e não os assustam (embora possam devorar os seus ovos se conseguirem entrar na concha, mas os pais multis não costumam deixar). O mesmo não posso dizer de caracóis maiores, como as ampulárias (se quiseres experimentar e correr tudo bem, avisa. Nunca os tive com multis, mas já me disseram que podem intimidá-los).

Dimorfismo sexual & Tamanho

Esta parte vou atualizando à medida que for medindo os meus multis. Os machos são indubitavelmente mais largos do que as fêmeas (entre 4 e 5 centímetros versus 3 centímetros, respectivamente).
A distinção entre sexos não é fácil, especialmente quando são jovens. Se forem castanhas escuras, são fêmeas (infelizmente, são poucas as fêmeas assim tão evidentes). Os machos também costumam desenvolver uma barbatana anal ligeiramente mais comprida e menos junta ao corpo e barbatanas pélvicas mais pontiagudas e finas (quase todos os meus multis são distinguidos assim, contudo, há exceções). Há quem diga que também se pode distinguir o sexo pela cor das barbatanas. Eu discordo. Na minha colónia, tenho multis de barbatanas amarelas, azuis, cinzentas, laranjas, etc.

Sugiro que adquiras uma pequena colónia (pelo menos de 4 multis), para ser provável teres um casal e para testemunhares o fantástico que é o dia a dia da colónia.

Imagem com um dos meus casais (fêmea em baixo e macho em cima).

Sou apenas um macho, mas quero várias noivas!

Tão verdade! Os multis podem ser mantidos em casais, porém, se tiveres vários em um aquário o mais provável é que um macho domine sobre os restantes e faça um harém com a maioria das fêmeas. com a maioria das fêmeas. Por vezes, talvez para não ficarem sozinhos, os outros machos estabelecem colónias em que também há um macho dominante, e os outros vivem submissos nas suas conchas, a não ser na altura de comer (os multis deixam de ser tão territoriais durante a alimentação, de forma a que todos possam alimentar-se, mesmo de colónias distintas). No caso de teres vários machos, recomendo um aquário com, pelo menos, 80 centímetros de comprimento.

Reprodução

Há peixes que precisam de condições especiais ou de um incentivo para procriarem, no entanto, não é o caso dos multis. Desde que as condições da água sejam razoáveis, não estejam a ser assediados por peixes maiores ou muito agressivos e tenham conchas, eles prontamente irão desenvolver uma turma curiosa de alevinos. Como já referi anteriormente, os multis são ciclídeos com personalidade e resistentes, mas precisam de um período de adaptação. Por vezes, pode demorar semanas ou um par de meses para começar a procriarem. Em parte, porque as colónias podem demorar a estabelecerem-se ou porque já há multis juvenis. Eles demonstram uma certa inteligência e tenho notado que procriam menos quando têm pequenos multis (de 1 ou 2 centímetros) na colónia.

Se o tank em que tens/queres ter os multis é comunitário (com outras espécies de peixes), não deve haver problema. Os multis são ótimos pais e mais depressa se zangam entre eles do que lesam os seus pequenotes. No entanto, peixes rápidos que gostem de 'doces' podem aproveitar-se das crias.

Outro parâmetro que já mencionei e que é mesmo crucial para os mutlis querem procriar é o pH. Se for pH neutro, os multis podem estar bem, mas dificilmente quererão trazer descendência a uma água má para eles.

Um dos meus machos N. multifasciatus dominantes.

Quanto ao comportamento de acasalamento, a fêmea tentará atrair a atenção do macho para a sua concha, que pode estar enterrada até só se ver a sua entrada para se camuflar. Quando macho se mostra interessado, a fêmea deposita os ovos no interior da sua concha (nunca são visíveis) e o macho fertiliza-os. Depois, o macho apenas tem o papel acessório de proteger o território e os alevinos dos predadores. Quanto à fêmea, ela irá proteger a concha e os alevinos até estes conseguirem ser independentes.

Os machos podem procriar simultaneamente com várias fêmeas e podem ter uma favorita a que prestem especial atenção. Curiosamente, a última prole que a minha colónia teve parece ter sido dividida entre três fêmeas, em que uma ficou com 1 alevino, outra com 2 e a terceira com 9. É possível que tenham tido todas alevinos em simultâneo, embora seja incomum terem menos de 5 ou 6. Ao contrário de muitos ciclídeos, os multis costuma ter entre 6 a 12 alevinos por ninhada, provavelmente pelo seu tamanho reduzido, por viverem confinados numa concha e por serem tão bons pais que conseguem levar a maioria dos alevinos à vida adulta.

Uma das minhas fêmeas Neolamprologus mutlifasciatus com os seus 9 alevinos.

Quanto à alimentação, em aquários grandes os alevinos têm sempre pequenos alimentos para se nutrirem. Em paralelo, esmigalho melhor a comida que abordei acima da Tropical e, como tenho um bom filtro, as migalhas são espalhadas pelo aquário e os pequenotes conseguem aproveitar. É importante não exagerar na dose, ou pode haver um pico de nitritos/nitratos, de algas, caracóis ou outros problemas.

Alguns machos podem decidir devorar alguns alevinos se considerarem que a colónia está demasiado grande para o que ele consegue proteger. Tal como diz o ditado, é melhor ter um pássaro na mão do que dois a voar.

Como aumentar o pH do aquário? Cuidado com as manchas!

Há várias formas de aumentar o pH do aquário para quem não tem a sorte de ter água canalizada alcalina, como a adição de químicos comerciais (que, pessoalmente, não recomendo. São caros e podem ter consequências adversas) ou a adição de material calcárico (como areia, conchas e rochas, que sobem muito gradualmente o pH). Contudo, a forma mais eficiente, rápida e segura de atingir um pH de 8,5 - 9 é, provavelmente, comprar garrafões de água alcalina no supermercado. Desta forma, há certeza de a água ser limpa, ter boas concentrações de cálcio, magnésio e demais minerais importantes, pH elevado e a ausência de cloro (um contaminante indesejado mas necessário da água da torneira). Pessoalmente, uso uma mistura de água alcalina engarrafada com conchas e areia calcáricas. Não é dispendioso e é bastante eficiente.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus fêmea com manchas castanhas devido a uma carência de minerais.

Em contrapartida, aproveito para alertar sobre o uso de carvão ativado nos filtros dos aquários. Embora tenha diversos benefícios, desce o pH e retira os minerais da água, alguns dos quais são fundamentais para os multis. A sua deficiência pode levar a que estes desenvolvam buracos na cabeça e manchas castanhas, como podem ver na imagem acima. Para corrigir o problema antes que as feridas fiquem demasiado grandes e proporcionam uma infeção, basta trocar a água por uma rica em minerais, tirar o carbono ativo e a dar uma alimentação de qualidade aos multis (caso ainda não o estivesses a fazer). Cuidado para não confundir a doença com uma muito semelhante e também comum em ciclídeos que leva a buracos na cabeça, causada pelo parasita Hexamita intestinalis. Neste caso, o tratamento será com fármacos específicos, que apenas recomendo utilizar se houver certeza da doença (fármacos utilizados para o tratamento também afetam os micróbios benéficos do aquário, podendo desestabilizar o equilíbrio do mesmo). Outra causa para o défice de minerais na água pode ser uma infestação de caracóis (esgotam os minerais nas suas conchas, especialmente de cálcio).

Nós somos alevinos — pequenos, sonolentos e MUITO curiosos!

No que toca a alevinos, o mais provável é que te depares com eles quanto menos esperas. O acasalamento dos multis pode ser discreto, o macho continua a proteger as conchas da sua colónia tão bem como antes de acasalar e a maioria das fêmeas continuam a ser tão independentes e trabalhadoras. No entanto, não entres em pânico se, da noite para a manhã, deixares de ver os pequenotes, mesmo que já haja luz na divisão onde tens o aquário. Os alevinos acabaram de aprender a nadar e precisam de mais tempo para descansar do que os pais. Por isso, é normal e até bom sinal que não vejas os pequenos durante grande parte da manhã e à noite (mesmo que mantenhas a luz do aquário ligada).

Why I write these Diaries? — Over the past few years, I have known, raised and bred several aquarium species (such as cichlids, tetras, viviparous, shrimp and snails). Like any aquarist, I adapt to each situation that arises, be it an algae infestation or a problem with filtration. To each end, I studied the causes of the problem and the practices I could use to prevent it from rehappening in the future. As there is no better way to learn than with experience, I will share here the odd and curious situations I have faced over the years. 

I aim to pass on captivating, funny and enriching stories. Since English is not my mother tongue, overlook any mistakes I may write.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus | A detailed guide to keep and raise these shell dweller

Classification: Neolamprologus multifasciatus (Boulenger, 1906)

Nickname: multis

Distribution: Africa, endemic to Lake Tanganyka

Reproduction: easy

Sexual Dimorphism: hard when young

Behaviour: great with fishes of the upper part of the tank
Diet: everything

Water Conditions & Habitat

IIn their natural environment, multis live at the bottom of the longest lake in the world, Lake Tanganyika. They live on its coast, where they find soft sand and empty Neothauma shells for them to inhabit. That's right! Each multi will live in its shell, where it will relax, hide and breed (just like we have our own house).

The lake water usually has a pH of 9 and temperatures between 24 and 29ºC. In the aquarium, multis are very versatile; however, I advise the following parameters:

pH — 7,8 to 9,5 (8,5 is ideal)
GH — 10 to 20 dGH
kH — 4 to 10 dKH
Temperature — 24 to 26ºC

Despite the above parameters, multis are one of the most resistant fishes I've ever taken care of. It's possible to keep them in very different parameters from the ideals, though they won't be happy. At first, due to the impossibility of having alkaline water, I had my colony at pH 7.2. What was the result? They never ever procreated. As soon as the pH rose, the fry started to appear (I'll talk more about this soon). Other water parameters, such as temperature and hardness, are more adaptable and can be adjusted from colony to colony.

Finally, there's the most critical requirement for multis life: the shells! At Lake Tanganyika, the shells are from the Neothauma snail; fortunately, multis aren't that demanding.  The first colony I kept was with this snail's shells, but, in the following ones, I used the shells I had at my disposal, like from normal snails or even more elaborate ones (as you can see in my photos). When choosing shells, avoid the sharp (which can hurt the multis) and the small ones (which will be nothing more than decorative). If the shells are bigger, don't worry, as multis don't care (some of mine even prefer!). Another funny detail I came across: multis like coconuts and rocks with spaces to get in and out for an aquatic ride. You can add them to multis aquarium if you like (although coconuts and wood logs may slightly lower the pH, their effect is not significant in large aquariums or naturally alkaline water).

We only live in a shell, but we want and NEED many!

That's right! Your aquarium should at least have 2 shells per multi (better if you can get more) and the distribution of the shells must be organized. On the one hand, you can choose an area of the aquarium to place the shells from where you want the colony to settle. Separate the shells a few centimetres from each other (if you set all in the same spot, only a multi or a couple of multis will live there, despite only using one or two shells).  You can place clusters of 3 or 4 shells in some areas so that, if a couple wants to establish, they can do it. I have had couples living in the same shell, but, usually, they like to live in different but close shells (especially when the female has fry).

Two females protecting the territory from their shells and their fry.

It should be noted that you must place shells in other areas of the aquarium, to form new colonies (if the multiples feel it's necessary) or the new group will be homeless. Another thing to keep in mind is that, no matter how much you choose an aquarium area to have the colony, multis can choose a different area to live in, even if it involves fewer shells (in that case, you can move some shells from the place you have in mind).

Maximum Lenght of Multis & Aquarium Size

Multis are the smallest cichlids on record, so they are also one of the species that require less space to live. As they like to live in colonies, usually from 6 to 12 elements and with a dominant male (habitually the largest), you may consider an aquarium for several multis. At a certain point, smaller males end up reaching the size of the dominant male, when they tend to be expelled from the main colony, and a new one can start as long as there are shells in other areas of the aquarium.

Thus, the most significant dimension of the aquarium is not the water volume capacity, but the width and length (multis only use the underside of the tank, so its height isn't relevant). In my 200-litre aquarium, I have a colony comprised of five females, one male and twelve fry living in a 40 cm x 35 cm aquarium space. However, I recommend a larger aquarium, so that the water parameters are more stable and in case the colony splits (which irremediably happens with more males or the increase of the colony).

Sand, sand and more sand  We are great diggers!

You heard the multis: they love to dig. One of its most captivating characteristics is precisely the hobby of digging. Any healthy and self-respecting multi likes to grab the sand or small stones around its shell and accumulate them in a nearby spot. It is not clear why they do this, although I suspect it works as a second hiding place beside the shell. For example, all the multis moms in my aquarium have their kids in a big cavity of sand under their shells (only during the day. At night the fry collect into their mother's shell).

That said, the aquarium must have a substrate of soft sand or small stones that will not harm the multis during their daily digs. I recommend a substrate of at least 5 centimetres. In my aquarium, I have a layer of sand and small stones of 6-7 cm. However, I do warn about substrates of this thickness: they can allow bacteria that do not like oxygen to grow on the bottom and produce toxic compounds to fishes, such as hydrogen sulfide (H2S). It's a risk that can be controlled since H2S is only toxic if it accumulates in the sand and is released suddenly. As multis love to dig (and often do it to the bottom of the aquarium), the sand is regularly aerated, and H2S doesn't accumulate. If you want to have a substrate like mine and play it safe, you can also add snails like Melanoides tuberculata, which bury themselves in the sand during the day, taking oxygen into it. To conclude with a curiosity, aquariums with a good layer of sand have the disadvantage of being heavier and having a lower water layer (not relevant for multis). Nonetheless, they bring the benefit of carrying bacteria that help to regulate the water parameters and avoid the accumulation of NH3, No2- and No3- (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, respectively). Therefore, fewer water changes may be needed.

Diet — We may not be exquisite, but...

Multis always have something to say. When it comes to food, they devour everything from granulated or flocculated to life food, such as brine shrimp and daphnia. I feed mine with standard flakes and with the chips that Tropical specially designed for the cichlids in Tanganyika Lake. If you also use this Tropical chips, you will notice that they are too big for the multis to swallow and too compact for them to bite and break. So, the secret is to undo the chips (I do it by pressing them between two spoons) before giving them to the multis.

Something I noticed when I acquired my multis (the two times I did it): They hate to switch houses! When they move into a new aquarium, they may seem very shy, pale and not interested in eating. Don't worry if it happens to you in the first 4 or 5 days. They easily handle this brief starvation period (as long as they are healthy, of course) and, on the sly, I suspect they'll always find something to eat (in good-size, with plants and natural aquariums). It will be much worse if you give extra food to accumulate in the aquarium, so they can eat when you are not watching. That may worsen water quality and can compromise the health of all fish (moreover, multis do not usually look for food through the sand, despite living close to it).

Behaviour & Compatibility with other fishes

Being cichlids, we cannot expect anything more from multis than fish with attitude. They may be small, but they will defend their territory with great conviction and in groups. As I mentioned earlier, they are fish that inhabit the bottom and middle of the aquarium, so there should be no problems if you have fish that only use the top of the aquarium (as long as the aquarium is not ridiculous small in height, like 20 centimetres, and be careful with fragile and too showy fish, like male guppies).

As for compatibility with other cichlids, there are mixed opinions about whether or not multis should be mixed with their fellows of Lake Tanganyika. If your aquarium is large and spacious, with 200 or more litres, the answer is simple: you can have other small shells or rock dwellers, like Neolamprologus brichardi or the smaller and more peaceful species of Julidochromis. You can also try adding Cyprichromis; however, these fish are fast and may be able to devour multis offspring before they can react (the entire colony will protect their fry, but it takes a second to them to respond to intruders, before going into fast mode defence. That second may be enough to Cyprichromis).

In parallel, you are free to add snails and shrimps (the latter are likely to be eaten, but it might be worth a try). As for snails, they can be a great purchase to help maintain the aquarium. Personally, I keep Planorbis corneus and Melanoides tuberculata, and I guarantee they are peaceful, do not touch the fries of the multis and do not frighten them (although they can devour their eggs if they manage to get into the shell, the multis parents don't let them in). I can't say the same for bigger snails, such as golden apple snails (if you want to try and go well, tell me. I've never had them with multis, but I've been told they can intimidate them).

Sexual Dimorphism & Size

This part I will be updating as I measure my multis. Males are undoubtedly wider than females (between 4 and 5 centimetres versus 3 centimetres, respectively). Appart the size, the distinction between sexes is not easy, especially when they are young. If they are dark brown, they are probably females (unfortunately, few females are so evident). Males also tend to develop a slightly longer and less close-to-the-body anal fin, as well as more pointed and thinner pelvic fins (almost all of my multis are distinguished like that; however, there are exceptions). Some say that sex can also be recognised by the colour of the fins. That isn't the case of my colonies, which have multis with yellow, blue, grey, brown and orange fins (males and females).

I suggest that you purchase a small colony at least of 4 multis, to be likely to have a couple and to witness the incredible daily life of the multis community.

Image with one of my couples (female below and male above).

I am just a male, but I desire several brides!

So true! Multis can be kept in pairs, however, if you have several in an aquarium it is more likely that one male will dominate the rest and make a harem with most females. So true! Multis can be kept in pairs; however, it is more likely that one male will dominate the rest and make a harem with most females if you have several in an aquarium. Sometimes, perhaps in order not to be alone, the other males establish colonies in which there is also a dominant male, and the others live submissive in their shells, except at the time of eating (multis are less territorial during feeding, so that everyone can eat, even from different colonies). If you have several males, I recommend an aquarium at least 80 centimetres long.

Reproduction

There are fish that need special conditions or an incentive to breed, though that is not the case for multis. They will readily develop a curious group of fry, as long as the water conditions are reasonable, they're not being harassed by larger or very aggressive fish and have shells. As I mentioned earlier, multis are cichlids with personality and resilience, but they need an adaptation period. Sometimes, it can take weeks or a couple of months to start breeding.  In part, because the colonies may need a long time to establish or because there is already youth multis. They show a certain mentality about it, as I had noticed that they breed less when they have small multis in the colony.

If the tank in which you have/want to keep the multis is a community tank (with other fish species), there should be no problem. Multis are exceptional parents and sooner get angry with each other than to harm their fry. However, fast fish that like 'sweets' can take advantage of their young (so expect less fry in community tanks).

Another parameter that I already mentioned and that is crucial for multis being willing to breed is pH. If it is a neutral pH, multis may be fine, but they will hardly want to bring offspring in such unpleasant water for them.

One of my dominant males Neolamprologus multifasciatus.

As for the mating behaviour, the female will try to attract the male's attention to its shell (which may be buried until only its entrance is seen). When the male is engaged, the female lays the eggs inside her shell (they are never visible) and then the male fertilizes them. Afterwards, the father has the accessory role of defending the territory and the fry from predators. As for the female, she will protect her shell and fry until they are independent.

Males can breed with several females simultaneously and have a favourite, which they will give special attention to.  Interestingly, the last offspring that my colony had seems to have been divided between three females, where the first had one fry, the second had two and the third had nine. They may have had all the fry at the same time, although it is unusual to have less than five or six.  Unlike many cichlids, multis usually only have between 6 and 12 babies per offspring. That's probably because of their small size, as they live confined in a shell and as they are so good parents that they manage to take most of their fry into adulthood.

My Neolamprologus multifasciatus female with her fry of 9.

As for food, the fry always has small foods to feed on in large aquariums. In parallel, I better crumble the Tropical food that I covered above and, as I have a good filter, the crumbs are scattered around the aquarium, and the little ones can enjoy it. It is important not to overdo the dose, or there may be a peak of nitrites/nitrates, algae, snails or other problems.

At some point, dominant males may decide to devour some of their fry if they believe the colony is too big for what they can protect, as 'A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush'.

How to increase the pH of the aquarium? Watch out for stains!

There are several ways to increase the pH of the aquarium for those who are not fortunate enough to have alkaline tap water, such as adding commercial chemicals (which I don't recommend. They are expensive and can have adverse outcomes) or the addition of limestone material ( such as sand, shells and rocks, which raise the pH very gradually). However, the most efficient, quick and safe way to reach a pH of 8.5 - 9 is probably to buy bottles of alkaline water at the supermarket. In this way, it is assured that the water is clean, has satisfying concentrations of calcium, magnesium and other valuable minerals, high pH and the absence of chlorine (an unwanted but necessary contaminant in tap water). I use a mixture of bottled alkaline water with shells and limestone sand. It is not expensive and is quite efficient.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus female with brown spots due to a lack of minerals.

I take the opportunity to warn about the use of activated carbon in the filters of the aquariums. Although it has several benefits, it lowers the pH and removes minerals from the water, some of which are essential for multis. Their deficiency can cause them to develop and brown spots (it may resemble small holes), as you can see in the image above. To correct the problem before the wounds get too big and potentiate an infection, change the water regularly with a mineral-rich one, remove the active carbon and give the multis a quality food (if you weren't already doing it). Be careful not to confuse the disease with a very similar one and also common in cichlids that leads to holes in the head, caused by the parasite Hexamita intestinalis. In this case, the treatment will be with specific drugs, which I only recommend to use if you are sure of the disease (medicines used for the treatment also affect the beneficial microbes of the aquarium, which may destabilize its perfect balance). Another cause for mineral deficits in water may be an infestation of snails (they deplete the minerals in their shells, especially calcium).

We are fry — small, sleepy and VERY curious!

When it comes to fry, you are more likely to find them when you least expect them. The mating of the multis can be discreet, mainly because the male continues to protect the shells in his colony as well as before mating, and most females remain so independent and hardworking. However, do not panic if, overnight, you stop seeing the little ones, even if there is already light in the room where you have the aquarium. The fry has just learned to swim and need more time to rest than their parents. So it is natural and even a good sign that you don't see the little ones for much of the morning and evening (even if you have the aquarium light on).

Why I write these Diaries? — Over the past few years, I have known, raised and bred several aquarium species (such as cichlids, tetras, viviparous, shrimp and snails). Like any aquarist, I adapt to each situation that arises, be it an algae infestation or a problem with filtration. To each end, I studied the causes of the problem and the practices I could use to prevent it from rehappening in the future. As there is no better way to learn than with experience, I will share here the odd and curious situations I have faced over the years.

I aim to pass on captivating, funny and enriching stories. Since English is not my mother tongue, overlook any mistakes I may write.

𝗖𝗼𝗿𝗼𝗻𝗮𝘃𝗶𝗿𝘂𝘀 | 𝗖𝗮𝘀𝗼 𝗱𝗲 𝗘𝘀𝘁𝘂𝗱𝗼 𝘀𝗼𝗯𝗿𝗲 𝗮 𝗡𝗼𝘃𝗮 𝗣𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗺𝗶𝗮

A Covid-19 é uma doença infeciosa causada pelo vírus SARS-CoV-2 (Síndrome Respiratória Aguda Grave – Coronavírus 2) e reacendeu um revés que a nossa sociedade não tinha desde a gripe espanhola de 1918. Pode ser uma memória distante, mas a gripe espanhola vitimou 50 milhões de pessoas, o equivalente a 200 milhões hoje e três vezes o número de soldados que morreu durante os quatro anos da Primeira Guerra Mundial (1). Neste ensaio, pretendo refletir sobre as características que levaram a que o SARS-CoV2 tenha sido considerado uma “Emergência Global de Saúde Pública” pela OMS e o que está atualmente a ser feito para detê-lo. A possibilidade do vírus se tornar uma calamidade tão letal quanto a gripe espanhola ainda está de pé.

Primeiro, é crucial entender quais as características de SARS-CoV-2 o tornam tão dramático. O vírus pertence ao género Coronavírus, que inclui membros que infetam regularmente os seres humanos, como algumas constipações (cerca de 10-15%, 2) e vírus notavelmente perigosos, como SARS e MERS, capazes de matar 10% e 35% das suas vítimas, respetivamente (3). No entanto, o vírus da Covid-19 possui atributos que o diferenciam de todos os outros membros. Por um lado, é menos contagioso do que as constipações, embora muito mais perigoso. Por outro lado, não é tão mortal quanto o SARS e o MERS, mas uma pessoa pode transmiti-lo com ausência ou leve sintomatologia, algo bastante incomum para os outros dois vírus. Esta última característica foi uma ferramenta crucial na contenção nas epidemias de SARS e MERS, uma vez que o pessoal médico podia isolar os doentes quando começavam a exibir sintomas, que coincidia com a altura em que ficavam contagiosos. 

Na situação do novo coronavírus, os sintomas são facilmente confundidos com viroses pouco severas e, assim, podem passar desapercebidos na população até haver um número elevado de casos, como aconteceu em Itália e em diversas outras regiões. Citando o conceituado imunologista Anthony Fauci, “em infeções, particularmente infeções respiratórias, quão mais eficiente for um vírus a propagar-se, menor número de casos fatais terá. É por isso que o surto da gripe H1N1, em 2009, não foi considerado uma pandemia particularmente grave. O vírus espalhou-se muito, muito bem, mas a sua taxa de mortalidade foi bastante reduzida." Nesta entrevista, Fauci alertou que havia exceções à regra, como a já referida gripe espanhola de 1918, que era consideravelmente contagiosa e fatal. Cem anos depois, deparamo-nos com outra exceção. Contudo, estes dados não são um indício que SARS-CoV-2 seguirá as pegadas da gripe espanhola, uma vez que o mundo avançou, não está assolado pelas condições deploráveis da Grande Guerra e possui meios mais eficientes para lidar e conter pandemias.

Relativamente às rotas de transmissão de SARS-CoV-2, ainda não são totalmente conhecidas. Acredita-se que as pessoas infetadas espalhem a doença principalmente por gotículas de saliva enquanto espirram, tossem e falam e por fómites (qualquer objeto capaz de transferir o vírus de um doente para um novo hospedeiro). Como mencionado, a reduzida sintomatologia de algumas pessoas predispõe-nas a transmitir a doença sem se aperceberem que têm Covid-19, além de que diversos estudos indicam que o vírus é capaz de sobreviver em superfícies por vários dias (mais de 3 dias em plástico/aço inoxidável, até 4 horas em cobre e 24 horas em cartão) e em aerossol por até 3 horas (4). Outras formas de transmissão, apesar de menos comuns, podem ser por contato com sangue, matéria fecal e urina contaminados (5). 

Sucintamente, a progressão da Covid-19 varia desde a ausência ou surgimento de sintomas inespecíficos (como febre, fadiga e tosse seca) até condições potencialmente fatais, como pneumonia grave, síndrome do desconforto respiratório agudo, sepses e falência de vários órgãos (6). A Covid-19 é especialmente grave para idosos e indivíduos com diabetes, doenças cardiovasculares, hipertensão ou cancro (7 & 8). Os homens são mais suscetíveis à doença, provavelmente por as mulheres terem um sistema imune mais robusto (9, 10, 11 & 12).

Informações recentes da OMS sugerem que a 'taxa bruta de mortalidade' do Covid-19 é de cerca de 3 a 4%, dependendo da qualidade do sistema de saúde, da idade média da população, entre outras variáveis ​​(7). É de salientar o quão cautelosa a OMS aplica o termo 'bruto', pois dados recentes indicam que a taxa de mortalidade pode ser muito inferior à atualmente estimada e há duas razões principais para o efeito (13 & 14). Primeiro, reconhece-se que algumas pessoas não desenvolvem sintomas severos de Covid-19. Consequentemente, muitos casos leves podem não ser numerados. A título de exemplo, um estudo chinês mostrou cicatrizes nos pulmões de um paciente contagioso com o novo coronavírus, embora ele não apresentasse sintomas. O diagnóstico foi confirmado: pneumonia assintomática por Covid-19 (15 & 16). Um outro exemplo é um homem de 27 anos do cruzeiro japonês. Foi confirmado que ele estava infetado com Covid-19 e que havia apresentado sintomas gripais por quatro dias; no entanto, o estudo concluiu que ele permaneceu contagioso por mais de duas semanas (17). Estudos posteriores são necessários para corroborar e determinar a ocorrência de tais situações, contudo, fica demonstrado uma das características que podem estar a dificultar a contenção da pandemia.

Dadas as informações e os casos discutidos, a eficácia das quarentenas implementadas por vários países pode ser questionada. A China foi certamente bem-sucedida com o isolamento, mas deve enfatizar-se que os chineses estão mais acostumados a seguir os cuidados para impedir a propagação de vírus e, mesmo assim, interromperam a sua economia para conter o SARS-CoV-2. A NASA informou recentemente que as emissões de gases venenosos para o meio ambiente haviam diminuído drasticamente na China devido à quarentena do país (18, e, há poucos dias, em Itália). O esforço do povo chinês parece ter sido gratificante, porém, o enigma permanece: terá sido suficiente para impedir que o vírus os ameace novamente? 

Devemos considerar profundamente a questão anterior antes de ponderar suspender por completo a economia da Europa, uma vez que uma nação falida é imensamente mais débil a enfrentar uma pandemia. É certo que o governo português já mediou tais consequências e procurou o melhor equilíbrio entre conter a doença e manter minimamente a sustentabilidade do país, como enunciou o estimado Presidente Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa: "Só se salvam vidas e saúde se, entretanto, a economia não morrer”.

Para responder ao dilema corrente e tendo em conta que as previsões mais otimistas para a obtenção de uma vacina predizem pelo menos um ano de distância, os cientistas também devem determinar se os pacientes que superaram a Covid-19 são imunes a reinfeções pelo vírus. Caso se confirme, a abordagem do Reino Unido de imunizar naturalmente a população pode ser uma solução realista. Claro que, para tal fim, as pessoas incluídas nos grupos de maior risco devem evitar a exposição, como o governo inglês tem sugerido e implementado.

Por fim, estudos futuros devem ainda concentrar-se em várias incertezas sobre o Covid-19, especialmente se é possível e plausível contê-lo a longo prazo, clarificar a taxa de mortalidade média e definir tratamentos medicamentosos para superar os piores sintomas do vírus (já há alguns em fase experimental).

Referências

1 — Patterson, K.D. & Pyle, G. F. (1991). The geography and mortality of the 1918 influenza pandemic. Bulletin of the History of Medicine, 65(1): 4–21.

2 — Heikkinen, T. (2003). The common cold. The Lancet Infectious Diseases, 361(9351): 51-9.

3 — Cascella, M., Rajnik, M., Cuomo, A., et al. (2020). Features, Evaluation and Treatment Coronavirus (COVID-19). Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK554776/

4 — van Doremalen, N., Bushmaker, T., Morris, D., Holbrook, M., Gamble, A., Williamson, B., Tamin, A., Harcourt, J., Thornburg, N., Gerber, S., Lloyd-Smith, J., de Wit, E. & Munster, V. (2020). Aerosol and surface stability of HCoV-19 (SARS-CoV-2) compared to SARS-CoV-1. Available from: https://www.medrxiv.org/content/10.1101/2020.03.09.20033217v2.full.pdf+html

5 — Cai, J., Sun, W., Huang, J., Gamber, M., Wu, J. & He, G. (2020). Indirect virus transmission in cluster of COVID-19 cases, Wenzhou, China, 2020. Emerging Infectious Diseases, 26(6).

6 — Serviço Nacional de Saúde (2020). Quais são os sinais e sintomas? SNS 24. Available from: https://www.sns24.gov.pt/tema/doencas-infecciosas/covid-19/

7 — World Health Organization (2020). Coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19). Situation Report – 46. Available from: https://www.who.int/docs/default-source/coronaviruse/situation-reports/20200306-sitrep-46-covid-19.pdf?sfvrsn=96b04adf_2

8 — WorldOMeter (2020). Age, Sex, Existing Conditions of COVID-19 Cases and Deaths. Available from: https://www.worldometers.info/coronavirus/coronavirus-age-sex-demographics/

9 — Karnam, G., Rygiel, T.P., Raaben, M., Grinwis, G.C.M., Coenjaerts, F.E., Ressing, M.E., et al. (2012). CD200 Receptor Controls Sex-Specific TLR7 Responses to Viral Infection. PLOS Pathogens, 8(5): e1002710.

10 — Peretz, J., Pekosz, A., Lane, A.P. & Klevin, S.L. (2016). Estrogenic compounds reduce influenza A virus replication in primary human nasal epithelial cells derived from female, but not male, donors. American Journal of Physiology, 310(5).

11 — Taneja V. (2018). Sex Hormones Determine Immune Response. Frontiers in immunology, 9: 1931.

12 — Frodsham, G. (2011). 'Man flu' - do women just have stronger immune systems? BioNews. Available from: https://www.bionews.org.uk/page_93215

13 — Wilson, N., Kvalsvig, A., Barnard, L.T. & Baker, M.G. (2020). Case-fatality estimates for COVID-19 calculated by using a lag time for fatality. Emerging Infectious Diseases, 26(6).

14 — Kelland, Kate. (2020). Why COVID-19 'Death Rates' Are Not What They Seem. U.S. News. Available from: https://www.usnews.com/news/world/articles/2020-03-12/why-covid-19-death-rates-are-not-what-they-seem

15 — Lin, C., Ding, Y., Xie, B., et al. (2020). Asymptomatic novel coronavirus pneumonia patient outside Wuhan: The value of CT images in the course of the disease. Clinical Imaging, 63: 7–9.

16 — Shi, H. & Zheng, C. (2020). Radiological findings from 81 patients with COVID-19 pneumonia in Wuhan, China: a descriptive study. The Lancet Infectious Diseases. Available from: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1473309920300864?via%3Dihub#!

17 — Arashiro, T., Furukawa, K. & Nakamura, A. (2020). COVID-19 in 2 persons with mild upper respiratory tract symptoms on a cruise ship, Japan. Emerging Infectious Diseases, 26(6).

18 — NASA. (2020). Airborne Nitrogen Dioxide Plummets Over China. Earth Observatory: NASA. Available from: https://www.earthobservatory.nasa.gov/images/146362/airborne-nitrogen-dioxide-plummets-over-china